Part VIII - My Adolescence Memoirs - Larkana in 1970s

    

Discussing Larkana and not mentioning Mohen-Jo-Daro is simply out of question. Mohen-Jo-Daro (meaning Mound of Dead) is an archeological site near Larkana. Built around 2500 years BC it was one of the largest settlements of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization. The ruins of the city remained undocumented for around 3,700 years until R. D. Banerji, an officer of the Archaeological Survey of India, visited the site in 1919–20, identifying the Buddhist stupa (150–500 CE) known to be there and finding a flint scraper which convinced him of the site's antiquity. This led to large-scale excavations of Mohen-Jo-Daro led by Kashinath Narayan Dikshit in 1924–25, and John Marshall in 1925–26. In the 1930s, major excavations were conducted at the site under the leadership of Marshall, D. K. Dikshitar and Ernest Mackay. Further excavations were carried out in 1945 by Ahmad Hasan Dani and Mortimer Wheeler. The last major series of excavations were conducted in 1964 and 1965 by Dr. George F. Dales. After 1965 excavations were banned due to weathering damage to the exposed structures, and the only projects allowed at the site since have been salvage excavations, surface surveys, and conservation projects. (Reference:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mohenjo-daro). It was designated as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980. It is the only point of attraction in this area for International tourists. It used to get swarmed by the foreign tourists in 1970-80s but alas, neglect from responsible agencies and later, worsening security situation in the country deterred the international tourists from visiting these ruins. 

In 1969-70, Larkana had a Bus-Stand near and opposite to an old diesel-engine powerhouse (now abandoned and converted into WAPDA/SEPCO offices) in a narrow road leading to a large open area (across Jail too) where 15 to 20 buses could be parked. This area now stands converted into doctors’ private clinics. Similarly the old Railway Station (opposite to the new building) had entrance through Christian Colony and City Courts side. People going to the Railway Station had to cross steep railway level crossing (known as Ghinty Phaatak). Tonga (horse-driven cart) was the only mode of transport for locals. A large Tonga Stand, which could park more than 20 Tongas with a facility of small water tanks for feeding horses, was located on main Bundar Road exactly between our house and Pakistan Chowk (crossroads), a commercial hub. The name “Tonga Stand” perhaps is still in use for that commercial area dominated by electric-ware shops. Some florists, shoes sellers also sit in kiosks at the front.

I remember the ZA Bhutto era (1971-77) during which first Auto Rickshaw, a three-wheeled passenger cart landed in Larkana, probably from Sukkur. Much of the afternoon I along with many children kept running behind it. We could hardly realize at that tender age that influx of Rickshaws in Larkana was going to be a biggest environmental setback. Tongas went disappearing as efficient Rickshaws took over them within no time. Now Chingchi with deafening sound is replacing Rickshaws faster than the latter replaced Tonga.

Similarly, a Taxi Stand was located near Royal Cinema on Station Road where taxis (cars and jeeps) would be found parked along the outer edge of Kazi Petrol Pump. Only a handful of people like Waderas (agricultural landlords) and businessmen owned cars or jeeps, most of which were however used as private taxis. Moving from Royal Cinema towards Railway Station a Hindu Mandir (Temple) is located behind a small Petrol Pump, just before the roundabout. And, between the temple and Royal Cinema is located a famous shop selling quality sweets called Duleep Sweets. Coconut sweet is the specialty of this shop for decades now. A Sugarcane Juice Vender also used to do thriving business in summer in front of Royal Cinema. Just across Royal Cinema, on opposite side, Qayoom Kababi, a Bar-B-Q shop selling Mutton Tikka and Beef Seekh Kababs in the evening used to do flourishing business as well. Similarly, no one can forget Abbas Karhai-wala at the roundabout. All students, especially boarders of Chandka Medical College would love to enjoy mutton karhai over here. The Desi Chicken was considered a special and costly dish during 70s. It was sparingly used at homes for guests only. One could never hear or see Chicken Tikka or Chicken Seekh Kabab at BBQ shops. I remember our father preventing us from buying Desi Ghee (oil made from heating up butter) anymore because of its’ sudden mammoth price hike; new price stood at Rs. 20 per Ser (Kg). We switched over to Banaspati Ghee (made in factories) that was available at less than Rs. 10 per Ser. We hated smell of Banaspati ghee and could hardly swallow the food prepared in Banaspati Ghee. This kept on for some weeks before we were conditioned to it.

Two beautiful gradens were also maintained in the city known as Jinnah Bagh and Zulfiqar Bagh (popular as Giyan Bagh) respectively. Giyaan Bagh was particularly used as student’s den for studies; every morning and evening the students would flock the garden to find their peaceful corners and study for their respective forthcoming exams. Other study points were Loco-shed Park (Railway Station premises) and Circuit House Park. Jinnah Bagh was mostly visited by the revelers and lethargic people who would sit there all day long playing cards or enjoying siesta.

The life was simple in Larkana back in 1970s; few owned refrigerators, air-conditioners were non-existent or never heard of, at least in our neighborhood. During summer, everyone would buy a big chunk of ice almost twice a day as per their needs. Hand-pumped water was used for drinking purpose in every household. In the afternoon, people would swarm the bazaar to buy mangoes and put them into a bucket of cold water for an hour or two before consuming them with rice at supper time. Rice being staple food of the area was taken daily at night with either mangoes or Pakoray and Kachori (a kind of cutlets deep fried in mustered oil). I can’t forget the aroma and taste of Pakoray and Kachoris deep fried in mustered oil prepared by a Bihari/Bangali vendor near Tonga Stand. Continued....